How to Start DTF Printing: Beginner's Guide 2026
What You Need to Start DTF Printing
DTF (Direct to Film) printing is one of the most accessible ways to get into garment decoration. The startup costs are lower than DTG or screen printing, you can print on almost any fabric, and you don’t need a huge workspace. Here’s what you actually need to get started.
Equipment List
The Essentials
1. A DTF Printer
You have two options:
- Converted Epson inkjet (£300-£800 for the printer + conversion): Common models include the Epson L1800 (A3, desktop), XP-15000 (A3+), and ET-8550. You’ll need a conversion kit that replaces the ink system with one designed for DTF pigment inks, including white ink circulation.
- Dedicated DTF printer (£2,500-£10,000+): Purpose-built machines from brands like Prestige, Procolored, and others. These come ready to print with proper white ink circulation built in. More reliable for daily production, but a bigger upfront investment.
If you’re testing the waters, a converted Epson is the cheaper way in. If you’re planning to print regularly for customers, a dedicated machine saves time and headaches.
2. DTF Ink (CMYK + White)
You need all five colours: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, and White. The white ink is critical - it provides the base layer that makes your colours opaque on dark garments. Start with a 100ml or 200ml set while you’re learning. White ink runs out faster than CMYK, so you’ll likely need to reorder white separately. Consider getting low sediment white ink from the start - it produces soft sediment that stays remixable rather than hardening in your ink lines, which saves a lot of maintenance headaches.
3. DTF Film
PET film that your design is printed onto. Available in sheets (A4, A3, A3+) or rolls. Start with sheets - they’re easier to handle while you’re learning and you waste less if something goes wrong. Move to rolls once you’re comfortable and printing regularly.
Hot melt adhesive powder that bonds the ink to fabric. You shake it onto the wet ink after printing, then cure it with heat. Start with white powder (works for most garment colours). Add black blockout powder later if you’re doing a lot of dark garments. A 200g bag is plenty for getting started.
5. A Heat Press
You need a heat press for two things: curing the powder on your film, and pressing the finished transfer onto garments. A basic 38x38cm clamshell press starts around £150-£300. Swing-away presses (£300-£600) give better, more even pressure. Don’t try to use a household iron - you won’t get consistent pressure or temperature.
Nice to Have (But Not Essential on Day One)
- Powder shaker/curer: Automates powder application and curing. Worth it once you’re doing volume, but manual shaking works fine when starting out.
- RIP software: Software that manages your print files, ink channels, and colour profiles. Some dedicated DTF printers include this. For converted Epsons, free options like Acrorip or paid options like Cadlink are common.
- Heat press pillow/pad: Helps with printing on uneven surfaces like seams and zippers.
- Lint roller: Essential for prepping garments before pressing - lint causes adhesion problems.
Realistic UK Startup Costs
| Setup Level | Equipment | Consumables | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget (converted Epson) | £500-£1,000 | £200-£300 | £700-£1,300 |
| Mid-range (entry dedicated DTF) | £2,500-£4,000 | £200-£400 | £2,700-£4,400 |
| Production (quality dedicated DTF + shaker) | £5,000-£10,000 | £300-£500 | £5,300-£10,500 |
These are approximate UK prices including VAT. Second-hand equipment can reduce costs significantly, but buy with caution - printhead condition is everything.
Your First Print: Step by Step
Step 1: Prepare your design file Create or open your design in any graphics software. Mirror/flip the image horizontally - DTF prints face-down, so what you see on the film will be reversed when applied. Set your colour profile and white ink layer according to your RIP software.
Step 2: Print onto DTF film Load your film into the printer (matte/coated side up). Print your design. The printer will lay down the white ink first, then CMYK on top (or vice versa, depending on your RIP settings). Don’t touch the printed area - the ink is wet.
Step 3: Apply adhesive powder While the ink is still wet, shake adhesive powder evenly over the printed area. Tilt the film and gently tap to remove excess powder from non-printed areas. You want powder only where there’s ink.
Step 4: Cure the powder Place the film in your heat press (or curing oven) at 160-170°C for 2-3 minutes. The powder should melt into a smooth, glossy layer. If it still looks grainy, cure for longer. Undercuring is the most common beginner mistake.
Step 5: Press onto your garment Place the garment on your heat press. Position the cured transfer face-down on the garment where you want the design. Press at 160-170°C for 10-15 seconds with medium pressure. When done, peel the film while it’s still warm (warm peel film) or wait for it to cool (cold peel film).
Step 6: Check your result The transfer should be smooth, fully adhered, and the colours should look right. If edges are lifting, you may need more pressure or time. If colours look off, check your colour profiles in your RIP software.
Common Beginner Mistakes
Not mirroring the design: You’ll print it backwards and only notice after pressing. Always mirror.
Undercuring the powder: If the powder isn’t fully melted before pressing, adhesion will be poor and your transfer will peel after a few washes. Cure until the powder is smooth and glossy.
Too much powder: Shake off the excess thoroughly. Extra powder makes transfers thick, stiff, and prone to cracking. Less is more - you want a thin, even coat.
Ignoring white ink maintenance: White ink settles fast. Shake the bottle before every refill. If you don’t print for a few days, run a cleaning cycle before your next print. Keep cleaning supplies on hand - neglecting maintenance leads to clogged printheads, which are expensive to fix. Using low sediment (soft sediment) white ink helps - soft sediment stays remixable and won’t harden in your ink lines like standard white ink can.
Pressing on a dirty platen or garment: Lint, dust, and previous transfer residue cause adhesion problems. Use a lint roller on garments and keep a heat press sheet on your platen.
Skipping test prints: Always test on scrap fabric before committing to a customer’s garment. Settings that work on cotton may not work on polyester. Two minutes of testing saves wasting a shirt.
Where to Go From Here
Once you’re comfortable with the basics, focus on:
- Colour calibration: Getting your screen colours to match your print output.
- Gang sheeting: Fitting multiple designs onto one sheet to reduce film waste.
- Batch production: Printing and curing transfers in advance, then pressing when orders come in.
- Different fabrics: Test your settings on polyester, nylon, and blends - each behaves differently.
DTF printing rewards patience and practice. Don’t expect perfection on day one, but don’t be discouraged either. Most of the problems you’ll encounter are solvable with small adjustments to temperature, pressure, or technique.
